The Trekker’s Guide to Seoul’s “San” (Mountains)

Korean Destination 2009 September
Words by John Scheid

In a land covered by precipitous terrain, it only seems natural that hiking, climbing, and trekking be national pastimes enjoyed by the masses. Anyone in Korea can attest to the hoards of meticulously prepared and fashionably garbed hikers who flock to the trails at any opportune moment. In a country so chaotic and labor-driven, Koreans and foreigners alike are fortunate to possess the ability to escape hectic lifestyles and reach refreshing heights well above the steamy commotion that accompanies daily routines and densely populated cities and boroughs. Whether in search of the perfect sunset, a breath of fresh air, or simply an enjoyable workout, look no further than Korea’s abundant summits for a well-rewarded challenge.

Aside from their natural wonder and extensive histories, the beauty of many of Korea’s peaks lies in their convenient proximity to cities and urban dwellings. Hikers can easily access many mountains by bus and subway, which allows for a feasible and expedient escape from city life. Some mountains require a bit more footwork but are well worth the effort. The following suggestions outline several of Seoul’s favorite hiking locales as well as a few lesser known destinations that are not to be missed by anyone seeking some of Korea’s truest beauty.

These mountains are all distinct in their own respects. In addition to offering scenic views, fresh streams and beautiful woodlands, many of these areas are strewn with historically significant temples and fortresses. To fully appreciate the importance of Seoul’s surrounding landscapes, trekkers should understand the history that accompanies them. Many of the temples were built in appreciation of their surrounding natural beauty and serenity, whereas many fortresses were constructed in the area as mountains provide natural protection from enemies and invasions. Remember, they all end in ‘san’ because ‘san’ means ‘mountain’.

1. Bukhansan (북한산)

Quite possibly one of Seoul’s most famed and frequently visited mountain fortresses, Bukhansan (also referred to as Samgaksan, or “Three Horned Mountain”) is a truly unique entity that few cities of Seoul’s caliber can boast. Trekkers can choose from a variety of different trails spanning novice to expert skill levels and can reach sizeable mountaintops with incredible views. The peaks that comprise Bukhansan each have their own personal attributes and challenges. The trio consists of Mankyeongdae (799 m), Insubong (810 m), and Baegundae (836 m). Each peak offers several different trail options and although they do require a certain amount of physical prowess can be individually traversed in about four hours.
Numerous buses access Bukhansan from Seoul, but one of the simplest routes is via subway orange line 3 to Gupabal Station. Take exit 1 and follow the groups of hikers to the bus stop approximately 100 meters away. From here, bus 704 provides frequent transport to the park’s entrance. Another uncomplicated option is from light blue line 4’s Suyu Station, exit three, to bus 120 or 153. One downside to this national park is that its popularity means that it is often times quite crowded. If possible, visit Bukhansan during the week or plan hikes to avoid overrun trails and large groups by trekking in off hours. The mountain can be quite enjoyable in the early morning or even as a night-hike, though it is recommended that hikers familiarize themselves with the terrain before attempting to hike the mountain in the absence of daylight.

2. Dobongsan (도봉산)
Another one of Seoul’s mountain destinations is located just north of the city. Various starting points for this trek include Hoeryong, Mangwolsa, and Dobongsan Stations on line 1. Dobongsan reaches 739 meters and is also located in Bukhansan National Park, though this particular mountain offers more sunlight coverage, valleys, and streamside trails than its neighboring Samgaksan. The hike is about 10 kilometers and takes about 4-5 hours in its entirety.

3. Suraksan (수락산)
In northern Seoul, Suraksan (638 m) can be easily accessed from the subway system as well. Suraksan’s trails allow clear views of not only Seoul, but also the aforementioned Bukhansan and Dobongsan. These areas can be reached from light brown line 7’s Suraksan Station.

4. Gwanaksan (관악산)
On Seoul’s southern end near Seoul Grand Park and Seoul National University lies Gwanaksan, which can be accessed from subway line 4’s Gwacheon Station. Like Bukhansan, Dobongsan, and Suraksan, Gwanaksan showcases several picturesque white granite peaks and appealing trails. These hikes are popular amongst visitors of all ages.

5. Cheonggyesan (청계산)
Located near Seoul’s ever evolving Gangnam, Cheonggyesan helps residents and visitors rise above modernity and appreciate the simplicity of past generations. Access this mountain by going to Yangjae Station on orange line 3 and take exit 5. From there jump on bus 8441, 8442, or 4432.

6. Buramsan (불암산)
Danggogae Station is the northernmost stop on Seoul’s subway line 4 and leaves hikers within walking distance of Buramsan. Summer trekkers can enjoy the power of Buram Falls whereas those seeking cold-weather thrills can brave ice climbing during the winter months.

7. Namsan (남산)
This location is well renowned as it is home to Seoul Tower, a common tourist attraction which provides panoramic views of the city. However, the plentiful trails that surround the area are often overtaken by jostling tourists. Take light blue subway line 4 to Myeong-dong Station, exit 3.

8. Bukaksan (북악산)
This is a particularly interesting mountain as public access was prohibited until just three years ago because of its location in direct proximity to the Blue House (the president’s residence). Thanks to hikers being forbidden access for nearly four decades, nature has been preserved on this mountain like few others in Korea. Be sure to make reservations at least one week in advance. For information regarding reservations, directions, and hours of operation, visit bukak.or.kr.

9. Achasan (아차산)
Following suit with Seoul‘s granite-faced theme, Achasan is not a shy mountain and has numerous single track, technical trails to prove it. Though the peak is just 203m in height, Achasan houses unique fortress ruins, ancient tombs, and stone pagodas. Achasan Station can be reached via subway line 5.

10. Inwangsan (인왕산)
Inwangsan is another modest mountain but ideal for a solitary stride or for a leisurely promenade with good company. The granite peaks here are said to have motivated many past Korean artists. At 338 m, its inspirational views can be achieved in the brevity of a short afternoon hike. To reach the mountain, take subway line 3 to Dongnimmun Station, exit 2.

The abundance of opportunities to view this mammoth metropolis in a peaceful setting is an exceptional attribute of Seoul. Many experience the monotony and uniform routine of large cities, but a lucky few of us possess the chance for a quick day or night hike close to one of the world’s most densely populated metropolises. Utilize the natural resources that surround this city to see it in a way never deemed possible. For more information on organized group hikes, check Seoul Hiking Group on Facebook, hikingkorea.com, or meetup.com for weekly excursions.

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