Online Tour of Bulguksa

Article and pictures provided by Chris Backe. For more of Chris’s excellent writing, stop by his blog.

Bulguksa

One of the most revered temples in Gyeongju, Bulguksa (the “Temple of the Buddha Land”) sounds like something out of a movie. It offers seven of Korea’s National Treasures, along with enough Buddha statues and monks to keep you at a permanent bow. The first small temple was originally constructed in 528 A.D., while a temple more like the one we know today came a couple centuries later. Constructed under King Gyeongdeok and Prime Minister Kim Daeseong to pacify the spirits of Kim’s parents, the building was completed in 774. As you would expect, it has been renovated several dozen times since then. The stone structures and Buddhas are original Silla dynasty construction, however. Look at the back of a 10-won coin – that’s Dabotap, an ornate 10.4 meter tall pagoda dedicated to the Many Treasures Buddha mentioned in the Lotus Sutra. The temple’s last major reconstruction was completed in 1973. In 1995, Bulguksa along with Seokguram Grotto was added to UNESCO’s World Heritage List.

Author’s note: Because this is considered a religious landmark and solemn place (and because “no photos” signs were everywhere), I took no pictures to offer of the statues themselves, or of the inside of the halls. I will simply say that the beauty and presence of these halls makes a trip of your own to see these sights worthwhile.

Getting to Bulguksa isn’t too difficult. Once you’ve arrived at the Gyeongju Bus Terminal, it’s a half an hour ride on a local bus.



Two of the Sacheonwang, or Four Heavenly Kings, guard the entrance to the temple. They protect the world and fight off evil, and each can command a legion of supernatural creatures to protect the Dharma if need be. Bow to each side before moving on.

Walk straight and head towards the main temple:

Bulguksa


The lower portion is named Cheongungyo; the upper, Baegungyo. They total 33 steps, signifying the 33 steps to enlightenment. The gate, Jahamun, refers the golden-purple splendors shining from the Buddha, according to legend. Unfortunately, climbing the steps to enlightenment isn’t allowed – you’ll have to go around to the side of the building and enter from there.

Bulguksa

Looking into an inner layer of the temple. The building ahead is Geukrakjon, or Supreme Bliss Hall. Inside is one of the seven National Treasures, a statue of Amitabha (the Buddha of Cosmic Light) (Geum-dong-amita-yeo-re-jwa-sang). Originally constructed in 751 AD and restored on the original platform and stones in 1750, it’s one of several buildings that date back centuries.

Bulguksa

A little further in, we have National Treasure #21 – Seokgatap. A 10.6 meter tall, three-story pagoda right next to Dabotap:


Bulguksa

National Treasure #20: A 10.3 meter tall pagoda, the name is derived from a sutra in which Dabo Yeorae (Prabhutaratna-tathagata) is verifying the truth of Seokga Yeorae (Sakyamuni). Symbolically speaking, these two pagodas refer to the truth of the Buddha’s words. They’re also a sign of balance – Dabotap is complex while Seokgatap is simple.

Bulguksa

Two of the four instruments used to ceremonially wake up the sentient beings of the earth. While the monks that sound these instruments don’t do concerts or performances, it’s still a wonderful rhythmic sound. In the background is a cloud-shaped copper plate – symbolically rung to wake the creatures of the sky.

Bulguksa

A large collection of tap, or rock piles – interestingly enough, a number of roof pieces are blended in with the rest of the rocks.

Bulguksa

Treasure #61: A sarira pagoda – looking more like a stone lantern, it’s not the sort you’re used to seeing with distinct levels. A sarira was used to hold the remains or relics of nobility or priests; this one supposedly has the remains of eight. The sarira’s style is from the Goryeo Dynasty, but was influenced by the earlier Silla Dynasty.

To put it mildly, the temple is gorgeous. There’s enough religious icons for several temples, and takes an afternoon to thoroughly experience. Even if not Buddhist, there’s a wonderful sense of peace and quiet in the air. Because it’s so well-known, coming on the weekend means there will be a crowd, which takes away from the sereneness a bit. If you go, find your bliss somewhere in the temple – there’s plenty of places to find it.


Also worth checking out in Gyeongju:
  • Seokguram Grotto - just a 20 minute bus ride from Bulguksa, and the bus stop is just across the street. Downtown Gyeongju – within walking distance of the bus terminal or train station are enough tombs and historical sights to fill an afternoon.
  • Gyeongju National Museum – where most of the artifacts discovered from the Silla Dynasty have ended up. Take bus #11, #600, or #603 and get off at the Museum. See for more details.
  • Bomun Lake Resort – it’s where you’re headed if you require a nice hotel. The hot springs are a nice draw. Take bus #10 or #18 to Bomun Lake Resort, or it’s a ten minute taxi ride.
Directions to Bulguksa: From Gyeongju Bus Terminal, cross the street to the bus stop and get on bus #10 or #11 (1,500 won, about a 30 minute ride). Both will stop at Bulguksa – listen carefully to the audio announcements (Korean only) or tell the bus driver where you’re getting off and look for their cue. Once off the bus, walk past the tourist information booth and up the hill. Admission: 4,000 won; open 7:30am – 5:30pm.

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